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GATHERING ]\fULBERRT LEAVES. 



J^v.'^,^ *^'^'<»"^'^. IWVO, vM/vvTVaJlAX^Oo vf:>ruj^ 



THE 



COMPLETE GUIDE 



TO 



SILK CULTURE 



BY 



L. CAPSADELL, .. j 
Secretary New York Silk Exchange. 







NEW YORK: 
W. B. SMITH & CO., 

1883. 



\ \ -■■ 



.H2Z 



Copyright, 1882. 
By W. B. Smith & Co., New York. 



PREFACE. 



Without sacrificing comprehensiveness to brevity this book 
aims to be a concise, practical, and reliable manual in every 
detail of silk-culture. 

French, Italian, and English authorities on the subject are 
discursive and elaborate ; early American authorities were 
premature, and are outgrown by experience ; and recent Amer- 
ican publications have been generally mere business circulars 
and pamphlets issued simply for advertising purposes. 

Diligent research and most careful effort have been made 
to discriminate, for this volume, the best data and the soundest 
results of modern experiments, and to bring them within an 
intelligent focus. 

TO SILK-CULTURISTS. 

It is reasor ably believed that no culturist, however young as 
a beginner, or however skilful as an expert, will need any other 
instruction than that which is comprised within these pages, in 
order to acquire the largest profits and to retain the best per- 
manent successes in American silk-culture. 

TO PRINCIPALS AND OFFICERS OF SCHOOLS. 

The method and practice of silk-culture are taught in all the 
schools of France, from the primary to the grammer grades, in 
the convents, and in all the high schools. All classes are taught 
its simplicity, usefulness, necessity, and profit. 

There is no industry in the worll which can be made so gen- 
erally universal and so immensely profitable as silk-culture. 
(5) 



yi PREFACE. 

From the feeding of the worms to the weaving of braids and 
ribbons and the knitting of hosiery, it can be conducted very 
economically and be made to yield an almost fabulous income. 

Why should it no'^ be introduced as a study in American 
schools ? 

TO TEACHERS. 

This volume is confidently presented as a text-book which 
will enable you to introduce and teach this new study immedi- 
ately. With the aid of the book the subject is easily available, 
interesting, pleasant and practicable ; and it can be taught vrithin 
a single school term of fourteen weeks. 

HOT77 TO USE THE "GUIDE" AS A TEXT-BOOK 

1. As a supplementary reading book in the higher grades of 
primary classes. 

2. As a recitation book in the intermediate and grammar 
classes. 

3. Turn the topical or black-letter sectio'n-heads into ques- 
tions. The topics are thus marked, throughout the book, ex- 
pressly for this Durpose. 

L. Capbadell. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

I. Silk-Food Trees and How to Raise Tliem 9 

II. Cocoonery, How to Construct and Manage 29 

III. Eggs, How to Keep and Hatch Them 20 

IV. How to Rear Silkworms 31 

V. Races, Varieties, and Values 39 

VI. Gathering, Stifling, and Packing Cocoons 43 

VII. Reproduction 17 

VIII. Reeling and Spinning 53 

IX. Silk-Culture Requisites CO 

X. Index 64 

ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Gathering Mulberry-Leaves — Fro:! is;)iecc 2 

Silkworms, First Age (2) 33 

" Second Age (2) 33 

Third Age (2) G3 

Fourth Age (2) C-i 

" Fifth Age 35 

Spinning-Branches 36 

Spinning-Branches in the Racks 37 

Standard Cocoons 41 

Strings of Cocoons 47 

Female Moth and Male Moth 48 

Mating-Box 49 

Cell for Laying Eggs 50 

Tray and Frame 60 

Rack : GZ 



NOTE. 

The author of this book is under obligations for assistance 
rendered in its preparation bj Mr. Virion des Lauriers, the 
Superintendent of the New York Silk Exchange and an expe- 
rienced silk-culturist. 

L. C. 
New Ycrk, Oct. 7, 1S82. 



(8) 



GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 



SILK-PRODUCING FOODS, AND HOW TO RAISE THEM. 

SPECIES. 

The Mulberry-tree was cultivated in China, and 
known by the name of The Golden Tree, two thou- 
sand six hundred years before the Christian era. 

The silkworm requires a food comprising four sub- 
stances, — a fibrous substance, water, saccharine, and 
resin. Water and saccharine nourish the worm; 
the resinous substance gives the silk. 

Good foods comprising the above qualities are 
given below, and are valuable in the order named. 
1. White Mulberry {Morus Japonica). 

{Morus Alba Moretti), 
{Morus Alba Rosed), 
{Ilorus Alba proper), 
{Morus Multicaulis). 
{Morus Nigra). 
{Morus Tartarica). 
8. Osage Orange {Madura Aurantiaca), 
Morus Japonica is Japanese, — the Lou Sang. 
In France, Italy, and Spain, nearly all other trees 
have been discarded for this. It produces more silk 

(9) 



2. 


u u 


3. 


ii u 


4. 


a a 


5. 


a a 


6. 


Black " 


7. 


Caucasian " 



10 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

than any other variety, and grows in more conve- 
nient shape and height for gathering its leaves. It 
is hardy, stands severe winters, and while it is the 
best for the Eastern, Western, and the Middle States, 
it is equally well suited for all the Southern States. 
It has a large leaf, comes early, and yields one 
pound of cocoons to about ten pounds of leaves. 
It can be planted from the first of October till the 
fifteenth of May, according to locality and climate. 
The fruit is white, smooth, and very sweet. 

The Moretti is the Morns Elata, and is used 
some along the Alps, South France, and !North 
Italy. It is hardy, grows tall and straight, has 
luxuriant foliage, and is good for standard or orna- 
mental trees. It produces one pound of cocoons to 
about fourteen pounds of leaves. Its leaves are 
very large, oval, sharp-pointed, entu'e, cordate at 
base, thin, and smooth on both under and upper 
surfaces, rather deep shining green in color. 

Morus Rosea has a large rose-shaped leaf. It 
can be planted as standard, hedge, or ornamental 
tree. It is slender, and has more extended branches 
than any other variety. Its leaves are shining as if 
varnished, and its fruit is of a rose-gray. It is not 
so good as the Japonica; and produces one pound 
of cocoons to about fourteen pounds of leaves. 

Morus Alba proper. — This is the parent stock 
from which the Japonica, Moretti, and Eosea are 
cultivated varieties. It yields one pound of cocoons 
to fourteen or sixteen pounds of leaves. It is used 



SILK-PIIODUCING FOODS. 11 

generally in France, Italy, Spain, and all silk-growing 
countries as standard; and it is abandoned only as 
the growers become acquainted with the improved 
varieties. The leaves are cordate, serrate, entire, or 
lobed ; the upper surface is a shining green, perfectly 
smooth, and the under surface has some liairs on its 
edges. The fruit is white, roundish-oblong, and in- 
sipid. The trees grow rapidly. 

Moms MulticaTilis (from the Philippine Islands) 
is delicate, and grows well and large v\ the South. 
Those who have it will do well to feed on it until 
they get better trees. It produces one pound of 
cocoons to about eighteen pounds of leaves. The 
leaves are very large, soft, and serrated near the 
summit. The fruit is white and bearded. 

Morus Nigra (from Asia Minor) is used success- 
fully in E"orthern or colder states and countries, and 
it mil produce good silk. It is very hardy, will 
groAV anywhere in the United States or Canada, 
and makes good timber. Its fruit is large, black, 
aromatic and jnicy. The leaves are large and 
rugged. 

Morus Tartarica, or Caucassian Mulberry, pro- 
duces a strong silk, grows rapidly, attains large size, 
is a prolific fruit-bearer, available for orchard or 
forest, and makes good timber. The fruit resembles 
the Morus Nigra. 

Osage Orange is a silk-food, produces fair silk, 
but less in quantity. Those who have this plant 
may use it advantageously, and with good profit, — 



12 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

especially as learners and beginners. Prof. Eiley, 
of the Agricultural Bureau at Washington, thinks 
well of it; but practical silk-culturists do not. We 
commend it as an intermediary. 

To attain the hest profits, the best White Mulberry 
(Japonica) must be used. 

Dwarf Mulberry is attained by cutting close 
to the ground, and thus forcing numerous sprouts. 
It may be brought to great perfection, out of any 
variety, furnishing as many leaves as another tree 
twice its size, and a much greater number of plants 
will grow in any given space. 

Paper Mulberry (from Asiatic Turkey) is some- 
times classed as a silk-food. We do not class it as 
such. Worms will feed on it, but are likely to die 
from its effects. The leaf is large, rough on the 
upper surface, and white on under surface. The 
tree is barren of fi-uit. It can be grafted with Ja- 
ponica, and thus makes good food the second year 
after o^raftino-. 

Lettuce. — Worms will sometimes eat lettuce, and 
the young leaves of the castor-oil plant. These may 
sustain life a few days, in emergencies of too early 
hatching, until the young mulberry-leaves come; but 
these are not .silk-producing foods. 

The old stock of mulberry-trees growing in the 
United States since 1838 must now be classed as 
wild trees. The varieties of these trees which pro- 
duce smooth white fruit — without bearded seeds — 
are available for cuttings and grafting; and thus 



SILK-PBODUGINa FOODS. 13 

Utilized may produce good results. Any of these 
trees (except the paper mulberry) may, however, be 
used as food by beginners, and until standard food 
can be secured and grown. 

Seeding. — One ounce of seed properly sown 
will produce about 5,000 trees. 

Sowing of mulberry-seed should be done between 
the first of April and the first of July. Put the 
seed in blood-warm water, and let it soak twenty- 
four hours before sowing. Sow in drills two to 
three feet apart. 

Drills must be carefully pulverized; and a small 
furrow, an inch deep, should be run in each drill, 
for receiving the seed. Ground should be prepared 
by plowing first in the fall and again in the spring: 
it should be stimulated, but not with heatino- nia- 
nures. 

Cultivation. — The seed-drills and very young 
plants must be protected from frosts by covering 
with leaves, straw, or matting. If the weatlier is 
dry, water every other day or once or twice a week 
with barnyard drain or soapsuds, always before the 
rising or after the setting of the sun. 

If the plants come too thick, trim them when the 
size of a goosequill, and put them two or three 
inches apart. They must be weeded, watered, and 
tilled. The second year, prune off all small branches 
up to a foot from the ground; and cut off entirely 
all that are poor or grubby. 

Transplanting.— When the seedlings are eighteen 



14 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

inches high — generally the second year — transplant 
to nursery, hedge, or dwarf orchard. Do not injure 
the roots. Plantation standards are transplanted 
from the nursery when four to eight feet high. 

Reproduction. — There is no absolute assurance 
of reproducing a particular kind or variety from 
seed. The seedling varies more or less, — is not pre- 
cisely the same in kind as the parent. A particular 
or definite variety of mulberry can be perpetuated 
without any variation only by grafting or by cuttings. 
But this is true of fruit-bearing trees generally. 

Cuttings. — Make cuttings nine to twelve inches 
long, with four to six eyes; bury two-thirds of each 
cutting, leaving two eyes out, twelve inches apart, 
in furrows three feet apart. Plant in spring in 
northern silk States, and in either spring or fall in 
Southern States. The large old trees of Morus Alba 
— that which yields a smooth v:hite fruit without 
heards upon it — afford cuttings which, by careful 
cultivation or ffraftins:, make excellent and standard 
food-trees. "Water cuttings in dry weather, and keep 
clear of weeds. 

Pruning. — June is the best season for pruning, 
when the young twigs which are taken off can be 
given to the worms. 

Grafting. — The very finest tree and the highest 
perfection of food are in mulberry, as in other fruit- 
trees, attainable only by grafting or budding. 

Nursery. — The ground should be well prepared, 
and well manured. 



SILK-PRODUCING FOODS. 15 

Kun rows six or eight feet apart, and transplant 
seedlings one foot apart in the rows, and press the 
earth closely around. 

When the plants spring, strip off the side buds, 
except such as are necessary to form tlie heads of 
trees. If tlicy do not shoot well tlie first year, cut 
them over in the following March about seven 
inches from the ground. 

Hedges. — The white mulberry forms an excellent 
hedge. Cattle must not be allowed free access to it 
while young ; but after it has become a good fence, 
the more it is broken and lacerated by cattle the 
more impenetrable it will become, as every broken 
branch immediately sends out half a dozen shoots, 
till the bush forms a perfect bramble. This makes 
a perfect fence, supplies food for silkworms, and 
keeps the trees so low that the leaves may be gath- 
ered by children. 

To MaJte the Hedge. — Take seedlings or cuttings 
two years old, and set them in the spring one foot 
to eighteen inches apart on the fence-line. Cut off 
the tops four to six inches from the ground. Leave 
two buds opposite each other, and remove all the 
rest. The next spring cut off one of these two 
branches in such a manner that each plant may 
have a long one and a short one. Height, form, &c., 
may afterward be regulated according to fancy by 
cutting the branches and feeding the silkworms 
with them. 



16 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

OBCHAEDS. 

Dwarf Orchards. — Transplant seedlings when 
two years old six feet apart. An acre will thus 
contain 1210 trees. 

Form the crown of the trees by trimming down 
about one foot from the ground. 

In the third and succeeding years do not trim 
until after gathering the leaves. 

For a few years vegetables may be cultivated be- 
tween the trees with advantage to the orchard. 

standard Orchards. — For standard orchards 
set trees, from the nursery, twelve feet apart, in the 
fall. An acre will thus contain 302 trees. Along 
fences, which are kept well cleared, trees may be 
planted even six feet apart. 

For immediate work one hundred to one thousand 
MoTus Jajponica, three to four years old, should be 
planted in the fall. Each hundred of such trees 
will feed a half ounce of eggs (20,000 worms) the 
next spring; and one ounce of eggs (40,000 worms) 
the succeeding spring. Increase the orchard by 
cuttings, seedlings, &c. Cultivate vegetables between 
the trees till the limbs nearly meet. Meantime ma- 
nure well. 

Hedge Orchards may be planted on good ground, 
well manured, and thoroughly cultivated, in the fol- 
lowing manner. 

Plant trees of one year's growth in rows six feet 
apart, each tree three feet from the next in the same 
row. Thus an acre, or 43,560 square feet, will con- 



jSILK-fiioducijvg foods. 17 

tain 2420 trees. In their third year each tree will 
yield about two pounds of leaves (or 4840 pounds 
per acre), and this quantity will be doubled annually 
till the eighth year. 

Third year's yield, — 4,840 pounds leaves. 
Fourth " ' " 9,680 " " 

Fifth " " 19,360 " " 

Sixth " " 38,720 " " 

Seventh " " 77,440 " « 

Eighth " " 154,880 " " 

Thus an acre of ground in Moi'us Japonica would 
yield 1548 pounds of reeled silk, which at the low 
average valuation of $5 per pound is worth $7,740. 
Streets and Parks. — Cities and towns may 
adorn their streets and parks with mulberry as 
shade and ornamental trees; and these trees may 
be the means of turning many a hovel into a co- 
coonery, and making the poor, aged, and infirm 
self-supporting and contented. 

Churchyards and Schoolhouses. — As the mul- 
berry makes beautiful shade-trees, its cultivation 
around country churchyards and schoolhouses will 
afford opportunity for pastors and teachers to im- 
prove the material as well as the spiritual and in- 
tellectual condition of tlieir parishioners and pupils. 
Public Highways. — In parts of France the 
roadsides are planted with mulberry-trees, and 
rented annually at auction. The income is sufficient 
to keep the public highways in repair, and is thus 
advantageon sly appropriated. 



18 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTUBE. 

The Hardiest Trees are i\\Q Nigra and Tartarica. 
These are used in Nebrasl^a. The liardiest trees in 
the mountain districts of Italy are obtained by graft- 
ing Japonica, Moretti, Rosea^ or Alba, upon Nigra 
and Tartarica. This combination produces good 
food and hardy trees, — the best for colder latitudes. 

LEAVES. 

Yield. — Clark gives the following table of yield 
of leaves from seedlings : — 

Four years from the seed, — 4 lbs. of leaves. 
Sixr " " " " 7 " " " 
Eight " " " " 12 " " " 

Twenty" " " " 150 " " " 
Thus seedlings planted in dwarf orchard (1210 to 
acre) in Morus Japonica will yield 4,840 pounds of 
leaves the fourth year, being equal to 484 pounds 
of cocoons. 

G-athering Leaves. — Put on a bag-apron. Pass 
the hands from the lower part of a branch to the 
top, and strip the leaves upward, not downward, as 
the latter would injure the buds. This should be 
particularly observed. In short, the process requires 
care to prevent the trees, especially young ones, 
from being injured. In cutting off shoots or 
branches use pruning-shears. 

If you have hedges and orchards or plantations, 
begin by pulling the leaves of the hedges; tlien 
proceed to the young trees of the orchard. Such 
branches as are stripped should be stripped com- 



SILK-PRODUGING FOODS. 19 

pletely; for if iiny leaves remiiin on a branch they 
attract the sap, and the naked branch is unequally 
nourished. 

But strip only one third of the leaves from a tree 
at one time when young, and one half when old. 

Forcing Leaves. — It would be well to have a 
strip of garden hedge in a southern exposure quite 
near the house ; and cover it at night with matting 
or carpet. This would force the leaves early; and 
if your worms should hatch out before tne trees are 
in leaf, this hedge would keep them alive, as at fii*st 
they consume but little. 

"Wet Leaves. — Never fued wet or damp leaves. 
They should be gathered after the dew^ has gone in 
the morning and before the sun sets at night. 

Dusty leaves should bo wiped with a cloth before 
feeding. 

Renting Trees and Selling Leaves. — In vil- 
lages and towns this can be easily done. Many 
people who have uncultivated land would no doubt 
be glad to plant trees for the purpose of selling the 
leaves, if they knew there would be a demand for 
them. In large cities, where one must go miles to 
find uncultivated land, the cost of going or sending 
for leaves to the raiser of worms would not make 
this procedure practicable. 

If one has only a city lot, he can plant trees on 
the sidewalk, and perhaps get room for one or two 
dwarf trees in the yard, which would furnish food 
for amusement as well as experiment. 



20 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTUIiE. 

II. 

THE COCOONERY, HOW TO CONSTRUCT AND MANAGE. 

The Building. — An unused outbuilding or shed 
mjiy be turned into a cocoonery, by proper altera- 
tions. 

Buildings erected for the purpose should rest 
upon posts or brick pillars twelve to twenty-four 
inches above ground, or upon cellars. Circles of tar 
should be put around the posts and pillars to inter- 
cept the approach of insects. Cellars are better 
than pillars, as they make storehouses for the leaves 
which have to be kept over night for early morning 
feeding. 

Size of Building. — The building or room for 
feeding 40,000 worms should be about ten feet 
wide, fifteen feet long, and nine feet between floor 
and joists. For feeding 100,000 worms it should 
be about sixteen feet wide, twenty feet long, and 
ten feet between floor and joists. 

Doors and windows must be protected by mos- 
quito or wire nettings against winged insects, spi- 
ders, etc. 

Plan of Room. — There should be two or more 
windows, on opposite sides; a ventilator in the floor, 
and one in the roof, which could be closed at will. 
The ventilator in the floor should be a square hole 
eighteen by twenty-four inches, — the pieces nailed 
together so as to close the hole tightly wdien desired. 



ROW TO CONSTRUCT THE COCOONERY. 21 

Meiiiitime the hole should be covered with fine wu-e- 
cloth to keep out rats and mice, insects, etc. Three 
feet floor-space should be allowed between the two 
sets of racks, and in this space the floor ventilator 
should be located. Therefore, the room should be 
longer than wide. 

The room must be void of furniture, and the floor 
bare. The windows should let down at the top, 
and have shades to exclude the direct sun-rajs. 
The worms do not mind the light, but they sicken 
in the sun. The room at all times must be well 
ventilated, but drafts of air must never come directly 
on the worms. 

Space Required for Racks. — An ounce of eggs 
requires thirty-two trays and two double or four 
single racks. Double racks are six feet high, three 
feet wide, and four feet long: single racks are 
6X14X4 feet. Two double racks should be set end 
to end together, and occupy twenty-four square feet, 
— floor-space three by eight feet net. Three feet 
more floor-space should be allow^ed about the racks, 
to enable a person to walk around and distribute 
food evenly. Single racks may set close to the walls. 

Shelves may be used instead of racks, though 
racks are better for regular work. - 

The shelves should be eighteen inches deep, eigh- 
teen inches apart, in rows six feet high, set near the 
walls, running from end to end of the room. These 
will economize space ; but they involve more danger 



22 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

to the worms, from insects and changes of tempera- 
ture, by being near the walls. 

Temperature and Moisture. — A small stove or 
fireplace should be in the room in readiness for cold 
days, for the worms must be kept warm. Tem- 
peratures which make you uncomfortable in very 
thin clothes will make your worms uncomfortable 
also. 

When your hygrometer indicates a very damp 
state of the atmosphere, straw or wood shavings 
should be burnt to absorb the humidity, and replace 
it by the external air, which is dried by the same 
blaze. I have said blaze, and not fire, for two reasons. 
With two pounds of shavings or dry straw there can 
be attracted from all points toward the chimney a 
laro-e body of air, which issues out at the flue of the 
chimney ; while in the mean time the air is replaced 
by a similar quantity of exterior air, which spreads 
over the room and revives the silkworms. This 
chano-e of air may take place without effecting any 
material variation in the degree of heat in the room. 
If, on the contrary, i\\\vk wood were employed, it 
would require more time to remove the interior air, 
ton times more fuel might be consumed, and the 
room wonld be too much heated. 

When wood shavings or dry straw can not be had, 
small sticks of light wood may answer. 

If you use a stove, the door of the same should 
be left open as soon as the fire is burning briskly. 

At no time after hatching should the temperature 



now TO CONSTRUCT THE COCOONERY' 23 

in the cocoonery fall below seventy-five or rise above 
3ighty-five degrees. 

If the temperature rise higher than eighty-five 
degrees, reduce it by sponging or mopping the floor 
frequently. 

If you have no hygrometer a plate of salt will do 
as a tolerable substitute, as the salt will grow damp 
when the room is damp. 

A pound of copperas dissolved in a pail of water 
will purify bad air or smell in the cocoonery. 

Electric Conditions.— Dm-ing thunder-storms 
and sultry weather unusual care must be given to 
ventilation. Under no circumstances must all the 
windows be closed. For this reason it would be 
better to have wooden-slat shutters outside of the 
windows, which will shed the rain and not exclude 

the air. 

During sultry weather it will be cooler by keeping 
the shutters closed. In cool weather the shutters 
should be opened. 

Ants. — As a precaution against them, the feet 
of the racks may be set in water. The mulberry- 
leaves should be examined to prevent ants being 
brought in on them. 

Rooms in Dwellings.— If it is not possible to 
build a cocoonery, then a room in the house should 
be cleared out, and turned into one. An attic-room 
will answer in many cases; but it must be perfectly 
clean and thoroughly ventilated. 



24 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTUME. 

Cocoonery Rules. — At the beginning of each 
season, or crop, — 

1. Scrub the floors very carefully. 

2. Whitewash the walls. 

3. Cleanse trays and frames which have been 
used by singeing them as you would singe a fowl, 
or wash them in a solution of sulphate of copper; 
and put new coverings upon the trays. 

4. Throw chloride of lime on the floor, and plen- 
tifully in the corners. Then tightly close the win- 
dows and doors for twenty-four hours. Afterward 
wash the floor again, and air the cocoonery. 

While rearing, — 

5. To avoid smoke, do not heat the cocoonery 
with coal or undried wood, or let a fire be badly or 
insufficiently kindled. 

6. Before feeding, expose the food to the temper- 
ature of the cocoonery for at least an hour, so that 
it may not chill the worms. 

7. Never sweep the cocoonery floor, but sponge 
it to avoid dust. 

8. Renew the frame-covers w'henever they become 
much soiled by excrement. 

9. Clean and air the trays every morning. 

Covering the Frames. — Drive four small half- 
inch brads along each end of the frames and six 
brads along each side, and cover the frames w4th 
tarlatan tightly drawn, for the first age or young 
worms. Use tarlatan through the first age. 



BOW TO CONSTRUCT THE COCOONERY. 26 

At the close of the first age replace tarlatan with 
mosquito-netting, and use netting through tlie second 

age. 

At the close of the second age replace mosquito- 
Qetting with perforated cardboard, or strong, tough 
paper. 

The paper perforations should be round holes 
ibout six-sixteenths of an inch in diameter and 
about one eighth of an inch apart, — each sheet or 
frame-cover having thus about 1500 perforations. 



26 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

III. 
EGGS, HOW TO KEEP AND HATCH THEM. 

After you have planted good silk-food, the next 
thing to do is to procure eggs. These are of a 
brownish gray or slaty gray or greenish color, and 
about as large as a grain of mustard-seed. The eggs 
should be received between IS'ovember and May. 

To Keep Eggs. — In order to preserve them till 
hatching time, place them in a wire-gauze box, 
tightly closed, and hang thera in a cool and well- 
ventilated attic with a northern exposure, or a dry 
ventilated cellar. If the wire-gauze boxes can not 
be had, put them in a cloth bag; but suspend them 
by wire, for rats and mice are very fond of such 
food, and will take extra pains to get at it. It 
is said that eggs put in a goosequill, and the open 
end dipped in sealing-wax, will remain without 
hatching for years. 

Examine your eggs occasionally to see if insects 
have attacked them, or if they have been affected 
by mold. If the latter occurs, it shows that the 
place they are in is too damp, and they should be 
removed to a dryer atmosphere at once. The tem- 
perature should be kept not above forty degrees. If 
the temperature should rise higher than this before 
the leaves are on the trees, the tin box containing 
the eggs must be placed in a wooden box, and this 
put in p.,n icehouse or refrigerator. Your butcher 



EGGS, HOW TO KEEP AND HATCH. 27 

will no doubt keep them for you in his ice-box for 
a small charge. They should be hung up the same 
as his meat. 

Hatching. — As soon as the leaves are opening 
on the mulberry-trees, the eggs should be brought 
from a temperature of forty degrees to fifty degrees 
for an hour or more; then to sixty degrees for 
another hour; then to the hatching-room at seventy 
degrees,— and here spread them out very thinly in 
the trays. The temperature should be increased to 
seventy-five degrees during the last days of the 
hatch, and should be maintained until the hatching 
terminates. 

All this time there should be some ventilation, 
but not drafts; and the eggs should never be put in 
the sun's rays. A pot of water on the fire, shallow 
pans of water set about the room, or the sprinldmg 
of the floor, will facilitate the hatching. In France 
a room with northeastern exposure is considered 
the best for a cocoonery. 

As the temperature rises the color of the eggs 
passes successively through bluish violet, ashy, and 
yellowish shades; and lastly they become more and 
more whitish every day as the hatching-time ap- 
proaches. 

If looked at closely, one sees a black spot and 
a brownish crescent extending along the circum- 
ference. The black spot is the head of the worm, 
which closely touches the shell: the crescent is the 
body, which i? •■h-eMdy covered with little hairs. 



28 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

When it leaves the ^gg^ the silkworm gnaws 
throngh the shell on its side, never on its flat surface. 
"When the opening is large enough, it breaks out 
through it, head foremost, and immediately fixes a 
thread of silk to any object it can reach, no doubt 
in order to keep itself from falling. Sometimes the 
opening is too small to allow of the head passing 
out, and the larva is forced to come out tail fore- 
most. At times, not being able to get its head free, 
the worm very soon dies of fatigue and hunger. 

On the first day but very few worms are hatched; 
but on the second and third days ihe hatching is 
very abundant. 

Of these newly born worms three divisions are 
made. 

Hatches. — Worms born on the first day are re- 
moved to another place or tray, and are called the 
first hatch. 

Those born the second day are removed and 
called the seco7id hatch. 

Those of third day are called third hatch. 

Those of fourth da}^, if strong and lively, are 
called ybwrz^A hatch. If they seem weak tliey had 
better be thrown away. 

These directions must be followed to insure even- 
ness in molting. 

All eggs not hatched after the fourth day had 
better be thrown away. 

Premature Hatching may be accomplished by 
freezing eggs and then bringing them very gradually 



EGGS, HOW TO KEEP AND HATCS. 29 

to higher temperatures. But it involves risk of de- 
generating the race. For grades of temperature see 
"Hatching," page 27. 

Feeding.— As soon as the worms are hatched, 
pLace over them a frame covered with tarlatan, and 
over this frame place the mulberry-leaves, on which 
all the little worms congregate by crawling up 
through the tarlatan. Then place the tray on a 
table or in a rack. 

The worms that after a while do not climb up 
through the tarlatan are weakly and sickly, and had 
better be destroyed. 

They are given as a first meal tender leaves cut 
into little pieces with a chopping-knife, similar to 
coarse smoking-tobacco. 

The knife must be perfectly clean; and tobacco, 
or even tobacco-smoke, must not come near the 
worms. All strong odors must be kept from 
them; and one must be careful not to let any other 
kind of leaves get in with the mulberry-leaves. 

It is a fact well known and guarded against by 
French and Italian culturists, that the leaves of 
apple, peach, plum, and many other fruit-trees, will 

kill the worms. 

Changes of Food.— When necessity has caused 
you to change the food from mulberry to osage 
orange, or vice versa, do not change a second time. 
•These changes are apt to hurt the worms, and stunt 
their sirowth all through life. 



30 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE 

Quantity of Food. — An ounce of eggs should 
produce 40,000 worms. Below is a table giving 
the amount necessary to feed them until they 
spin. 

First age, 6 days, about 5 lbs. daily. 
Second " 5 days, " 10 " " ' 
Third " 5 days, " 25 " " 
Fourth « 6 days, " 60 " " 
Fifth " 8 days, " 150 " " 
Average quantity first age, 30 lbs. 
Average quantity second age, 50 " 
Average quantity third age, 125 " 
Average quantity fourth age, 300 " 
Average quantity fifth age, 1200 " 



Total, 1725 

About two-fifths of which is waste. 



MOW TO BEAR SILKWORMS, 31 

lY. 
HOW TO REAR SILKWORMS. 

The Ages. — The worm goes through molts, or 
sleeknesses. The periods between these different 
molts are called "ages," — there being five of these 
ages, including the first after the hatching and the 
last before the spinning. 

The first period usually occupies from ^yq to six 
days; the second but four or five; the third about 
five ; the f om-th from five to six ; and che fifth about 
eight days. The time from the hatching to the 
spinning usually occupies about thirty days. 

Molting. — The worm grows so fast that its skin 
does not stretch in proportion to its growth, and it 
bursts its skin. Hence the more it is fed the more 
quickly it will molt. 

Five or six days after the hatching they will com- 
mence to molt. One may know^ this by their be- 
coming torpid, and appearing like small bits of 
rusty iron wire. At first a dark spot can be seen, 
by the magnifying-glass, in front of the first joint. 
This indicates the growth of a new head. 

When its term of sickness is over, tlie worm casts 
its old skin. It then rests twenty-four hours to get 
new strength. As soon as the worm begins to move 
about, give it a light meal of wild mulberry, if you 
have it. Afterwards give the regular food. 

In the operation of molting the new head is first 



32 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

disengaged from the old skin, which is then grad- 
ually worked back until entirely cast off. 

If the worm is feeble the shriveled skin may re- 
main on the end of the body, being held by the 
anal horn, — in which case the worm usually per- 
ishes. 

First Age. — During the first age they are given 
six meals a day of finely chopped leaves, taking care 
to distribute their food to them as equally as pos- 
sible. The first meal is given early in the morning: 
the last at eleven o'clock at night. 

The frames should be covered with coarse tarla- 
tan during the first age. 

FIRST AGE. 



Before molting. After molting. 

Second Age. — During the second age still cut 
the leaves for the worms, but into larger pieces, and 
proportioned to their size. During the day the room 
should be kept a little warmer than at night. At 
the end of this age they have only four meals a day. 

The frames should be covered with mosquito- 
netting at the commencement of the second age. 

SECOND AGE. 
Before molting. After molting. 

Third. Age. — During the third age the number 
of meals is kept to four, the first being given at four 



HOW TO REAR SILKWORMS. 33 

to ^WQ o'clock in the morning, and the last about 
eleven at night. The leaf is cut into large pieces 
or left whole, and distributed as equally as possible. 
The net or paper is spread over the worms and 
leaves; and when the worms have congregated on 
the same, it is removed to clean paper or to the 
traj, and the debris is burned. 

One will be apt to find at this period worms that 
have not strength enough to molt. They are larger 
than those that have just awakened, and that have 
not as yet eaten and are shiny. These must be care- 
fully removed, for they vvdll soon die. 

The frames are covered with perforated paper 
at the beginning of this age, and used till the worm 
spins. 

THIRD AGE. 



Before molting. After molting. 

Fourth Age. — During the fourth nge do not 
cut the leaves, but give them a great many more 
leaves at once. The result is, the litter increases in 
thickness, and the cleaning of the trays must not be 
neglected. The molt that follows the fourth age is 
the most critical phase in the life of the silkworm. 
During their sleep they are a prey to the most acute 
suffering, and are plunged into a state of lethargy 
which resembles death. This molt lasts longer than 
the other molts. 



34 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

During this time the room should be kept very 
well ventilated and the trays very clean. 

It is when they awake out of this last sleep that 
disease may break out. The yellow or fat ones and 
the soft or indolent ones die easily. 

Several persons have written me that they have 
saved their i^icls: worms by putting them out of doors. 
One lady unknowingly threw away some silkworms, 
and they remained out in a heavy two-days' storm. 
At the end of that time she found them alive and 
well, and they afterward spun fine cocoons. 

As ants, mice, and birds are always to be guarded 
against, I would suggest a hanging shelf in an open 
shed for all sick worms, with perhaps some netting 
stretched about to keep away winged insects. 

FOURTH AGE. 




Before molting. After molting. 

The worms at the end of the fourth molt are lean 
and feeble. They must now have an abundance of 
leaves every day till the beginning of the fifth age. 

Fifth Age. — During the fifth age the worms be- 
come large so quickly that on the fifth or sixth day 
they are obliged to be moved away from each other 
on the litter. The trays should be carefully cleaned 
every morning on account of the enormous amounc 
of excrement; and at the same time good ventila- 
tion must be constantly retained. 



HOW TO BEAR SILKWORMS. 35 

Havino- attained full growth the worm is ready 
bo go npto spin. It ceases to eat, turns yellow or 
pearly white, and becomes transparent as a grape. 

Up to this time the worm has never thought of 
wandering away from -its food. Now it is seized 
with an irresistible desire to leave its quarters, it 



FIFTH AGE. 




Eeady to go up and spin. 

gets up, roams about, and moves its head in all di- 
rections to find some place to cling on to. It now 
looks for a convenient place to spin its cocoon. 

How to Handle Silkworms.— Handle the 
large worms with fiat, inch-wide cameFs-hair brushes, 

or leaves. 

Never take them up with your fingers. 

When the small worms will not leave the old dry 
food, press over them hghtly a soft plush brush or 
very soft hat-brush. The worms will adhere to the 
brush. The brush should then be lifted and shook 
closely and gently over the fresh food, when some 
of them will fail; others will hang by a silken 
thread which thev always throw out when they feel 
there is danger. ' The brush should then be passed 
hghtly overUie leaves. This will detach them, and 
cause them to stick to their new food. 



36 * GUIDE TO SILK-GULTURE. 

Spinning Branches. — Bunches of dry twigs 
without leaves, or bunches of wheat-straw or broom- 
corn, tied near the bottom, should be spread out 

thinly in the form 
of fans, so that 
the air can circu- 
late freely, and be 
stood in the racks 
' about the edges 
of the trays. 

There will be 
lazy worms that 
will not mount. 
These should be 
removed to anoth- 
er place, and dry 
branches placed in 
their way. They 
will soon mount 
the branches and 
begui their work. 
The temperature 
should be kept 

SPINNma BRANCHES. T"' """^t ^'""'^ 

or ventilation be 
given, but they should aU be kept as dry as possible. 
AU excrement and diseased or dead worms should 
be carefully removed. 

Those that drop down while, spinning must be 
earned out and placed with the lazy ones. 




HOW TO REAR SILKWORMS. 



3T 



Spinning the Cocoons.— When the silkworm 
,as mounted the branch to spin, it begins by attach- 
ag, to numerous twigs, threads to support the co- 
oon. These threads are afterward called waste silk. 






^•eMP&mt 



SPINNING BEANCHES ARRANGED IN THE RACKS. 

After the proper space has been circumscribed 
by this means, the worm begins to disgorge or spin 
its thread, which is continuous, and from six hun- 
dred to eight hundred yards in length. 

It has been calculated that sixty thousand cocoons 
would suffice to surround the earth at the equator 
with a thread of silk. 



38 OUIDE TO BILK-CULTURE. 

Folded on itself almost like a horseshoe, — its back 
within, its legs without, — the worm arranges its 
thread all aromid its body, describing ovals with its 
head. Its head is said to complete sixty-five ellip- 
tical motions a minute — or a total of three hundred 
thousand — in making a cocoon, discharging the 
thread at the rate of four to six inches a minute. 

About the fourth day, after having expended all 
its silk-fluid, the worm, shut up in its cocoon, be- 
comes a waxy wliite color, and swollen in the middle 
of the body. The abdominal legs wither away; the 
six fore-legs approach each other and become 1)lack ; 
the parts of the mouth tend downward; the skin 
wrinkles. Yery soon it is detached and pushed 
down toward the hinder part, and the chrysalis 
appears under the rents in the skin. It is first white, 
but speedily becomes of a brown red, and remains 
in a pupa state from fifteen to seventeen days. 

In three days from the commencement of spinning 
the silkworms finish their cocoons, and in five to 
eight days they are ready for picking. 

The cocoons should be large, heavy, and well 
sliaped. The good ones are regular, their ends are 
rounded, and they are hard and have a fine grain. 
The best are drawn in toward the middle, or have a 
concavity on either side, that is, peanut-shaped. 



MAGES, VARIETIES AMD VALUES. 39 

Y. 

RACES, VARIETIES AND VALUES. 

Migratory Effects. — Migration and varied do- 
mestication have had the effect of producing nume- 
rous varieties of the silkworm, every different climate 
into which it has been carried having produced 
either some changes in the quality of the silk, or the 
shape or color of the cocoons, or altered the habits 
of the worm. 

Individuals of the same race exported to a aozen 
different localities would, in all probability, soon 
present a dozen varieties. 

AniiTials and Polyvoltins. — Some races pro- 
duce but one brood in a year. Such are known as 
Annuals, Annuals are the strongest and hardiest, 
and are preferred in France,' Italy, and Europe 
generally, where they now use, with great success, 
what are known as the Pyrenean, Cevennes, Yar, 
Milanese, and Houmeliam (Adrianople) varieties. 

Experiments, taking into consideration the size of 
the cocoon, quality of silk, time occupied, hardiness, 
quantity of leaves required, etc., have proved the 
Annuals to be more profitable than any of the Poly- 
voltins, although Pivoltins are often reared. 

Those kno^vn as Bivoltins hatch twice in the 
com'se of the year : the first time, as with the An- 
nuals, in April or May ; and the second, eight or ten 
days after the eggs are laid by the first brood. The 



40 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

eggs of the second brood only are kept for the next 
yejir's crop, as those of the first brood always either 
hatch or decay soon after being laid. 

The TrivoUins produce three generations an- 
nually. 

Quadrivoltins produce four generations a year. 
Some Quadrivoltins molt but three times instead of 
four, especially in warm countries. 

Color and Size. — Varieties are also known by 
the color of the cocoons they produce, as Greens, 
or Whites, or Yellows; and also by the country in 
wliich they flourish. > 

The white silk is the most valuable in commerce; 
but the races producing yellow, cream-colored, or 
sulphur-colored cocoons, are generally considered to 
be the most vigorous. 

The three most marked and noted European va- 
rieties are the Italian breed, producing small yel- 
low cocoons; the French, producing large yellow 
eocoons; and the Turkish, producing large white 
cocoons. 

There are two principal Japanese Annuals, — one 
producing white and the other greenish cocoons, 
and known respectively as the white Japanese and 
the green Japanese Annuals. These cocoons are 
by no means large, but the pods are solid and firm. 
Both varieties are about of a size, and are almost 
always constricted in the middle. 

The white Chinese Annual resembles the white 
Japanese, but is not as generally constricted. 



BACES, VABIBTIES, AND TALUKS. 41 




K. French and Turkish, yeUow. B, Italian, wMH 

C, Turldsh and French, white. 
D, Japanese, green and white. E. Chinese, white and yellow. 



42 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

Weight. — The large cocoons of the French and 
Turkish varieties are estimated to average 300 to a 
pound (stifled and dried), and to yield 133 pounds 
from an ounce of eggs. 

The small cocoons of the Italian, Japanese, and 
Chinese varieties are estimated at 450 to a pound, 
and to yield 89 pounds from an ounce of eggs. 

Relative Values. — Estimating §10 to be the 
highest standard price, or the maximum mercantile 
grade, for a pound of reeled silk produced from any 
race, the relative values of the regular distinctive 
varieties are about as follows: — 

Best Turkish (pure white), . . . §10.00 

Best French, Y.OO 

Best Italian, 6.75 

Best Japanese, 5.75 

Best Chinese, • . 5.00 

Grades and values are determined by color, sinew 
of thread, and skill in reeling. 

The white Turkish can not be classed as a reg- 
ular variety, because it is very difficult, in rearing, 
to prevent pure white cocoons from being soiled. 
Hence their cultivation is not general, is confined 
exclusively to experts, and the product is compar- 
atively limited. 



GATHERING, STIFLING, AND PACKING. 43 

YI. 

GATHERING, STIFLING, AND PACKING COCOONS. 

Gathering.^ The gathering should be com- 
menced about five days after the worms have begun 

spmning. 

The finest, largest cocoons, should be selected for 
eggs; and these must remain in the branches eight 

or ten days. 

The others should be carefully taken from the 

branches, with all their floss. 

The loose, ra-ged floss, should then be taken from 
the cocoons witli great delicacy, to prevent the co- 
coons from being flattened or bruised. The en- 
velope-floss— a little loose case that envelopes the 
cocoon— must remain on to keep the cocoons 

clean. 

Sorting the Cocoons.— This should be done 
at the time and by the person who takes off the 
floss. The imperfect and soiled ones should be put 
together, and the perfect, clean ones, should be 
kept apart from them, as the clean ones will bring 
higher prices. The black, soft, wet ones, should be 
discarded. 

Double Cocoons can not be reeled, but can be 
sold with the pierced cocoons. Some use them for 
reproduction. Others advise against it. 

Stifling.— When the cocoons have been sorted, 
unless it is desired to reel them innnediately or to 



44 GUIDE TO BILK-GJJLTURE. 

sell them green, they must be stifled to prevent the 
chrysalides from emerging. This is done in various 
ways. The processes commonly used comprise — 

Steaming, 

Dry hot air, 

Charcoal fumes, 

Solar rays. 

Hot Air. — To stifle by dry hot air, the cocoons 
should be placed in shallow perforated pans, and 
these put in an oven with a temperature of two hun- 
dred and twelve degrees, and allowed to remain 
thirty minutes. 

Care must be taken to prevent the temperature 
from rising above this; for if the cocoons are the 
least scorched, it hurts their value ver}^ much. 

After they come from the oven they should be 
spread out in a dry sunny room for several days. 

Steaming. — The cocoons should be put into a 
coarse bag or steam- stifler, and steamed for a half 
hour over boiling water, the same as potatoes are 
steamed. At the end of that time they should be 
spread about two inches deep, on sheets in the sun, 
and stirred four times a day until thoroughly dry. 
It sometimes takes ten days to dry them. 

Charcoal Fumes. — The cocoons must be placed 
in a small, tightly closed room, detached from the 
rest of the house, or hung in a basket or bag in the 
top of a large box or liogshead with the bottom out. 
A pot of burnhig charcoal must then ]>e prepared, 
and the box or hogshead must be set over it, the 



GA r BERING, STIFLING, AND PACKING. 45 

earth banked up solidly around it, and allowed to 
remain twenty-four hours. If a box or hogshead 
is used, all seams or cracks must be tightly closed 
with lead or putty. 

The Italians sometimes put sweet-scented herbs 
in with the burning charcoal, which gives the co- 
coons a pleasant perfume. The cocoons, on being 
taken out, should be spread in the sun for six to 
eight days to dry, and should be stirred frequently. 
"solar Rays.— In the tropic South the cocoons 
can be stifled by spreading them out in the sun for 
three or four days. But it is much better to have 
large tightly closed glass-covered boxes in which to 
place the cocoons. This will insure a greater heat, 
and will stifle them more quickly ; and besides will 
keep away insects. The boxes should be opened 
three to four times a day long enough to stir up 
the cocoons. 

Precautions Against Cocoon Enemies. — Mice 
and rats will gnaw holes in the cocoons to get to 
the chrysalides. A mite attacks them while drying, 
and a moth cuts the silk. To keep them away, 
sprinkle gum-camphor among the cocoons. 

Packing-Cases. — They should be made of light 
pine, with horizontal partitions about a foot apart, 
to keep the cocoons from being mashed. The par- 
titions can be made of thin slats, each slat about 
one fourth of an inch above the other, so as to pre- 
vent much weiorht. 



46 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

"Weighing for Market.— The box or case should 
be weighed before packing. After the cocoons are 
packed it should be weighed again, and a careful 
memorandum made of both. You get paid for the 
weight of the cocoons only. 

How to Pack.— Pack the perfect cocoons, and 
the imperfect and soiled cocoons, rather loosely, in 
separate divisions or boxes, each kind to them- 
selves. Compact them by shaking the box, not by 
direct pressure. 

The pierced and mashed ones can be packed as 
tightly as they will pack, for these will be carded 
and not reeled. 

When to Ship.— Green or unstifled cocoons 
should be shipped as soon as taken from the spin- 
ning branches. 

Stifled or dried cocoons, after ten or more days' 
exposure to the sun's rays. 
Pierced cocoons at any time. 
Floss or waste at any time. 

How to Ship.— Four pounds or less can be sent 
by mail at one cent per ounce. Larger quantities 
had better be put in wooden boxes and sent by 
freight, especially for long distances. Shipments 
at short distances, say two to four hundred miles, 
may be sent by express. But express charges on 
large boxes for long distances curtail the profits of 
small culturists and beginners very seriously. 



REPRODUCTION, 



47 



YII. 
REPRODUCTION. 

Stringing Cocoons. — When the cocoons selected 
for reproduction have remained on the branches 
eight days, they are taken 
down, stripped of their loose 
floss, and strung on a thread. 
This is done by sticking the 
needle lightly through the 
side of the cocoon. The 
greatest care must be taken 
not to pierce or distui'b the 
chrysalis inside. 

When the strings are a 
yard long hang them up 
in a dry, 
and well 



wail 



against the 
moderately dark, 
ventilated room. 

Sexes. — Some say that 
the male cocoon is smaller 
than the female, depressed in 
the middle, and somewhat 
sharp at one or both ends; 
that the female cocoon is 
larger, more round and blunt at the end, and but 
slightly (if any) depressed. Others again assert that 
the sexes can only be told by weighing, — the female 
weisrhins: the most. 




STRINGS OF COCOONS. 



48 



GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 




FEMALE MOTH. 



Mating, or Coupling. — From twelve to iiiteen 
days after the worms spin the cocoons the moths 
will begin to appear. They come out from four to 

eight o'clock in 
the morning. 
The sexes are 
easily distin- 
guishable. The 
female is quiet, 
sluggishjand has 
a large body, full 
of eggs. The 
male is smaller, 
its wings are 
tinged witli gray, 
and it flutters 
them constantly. 
The very mo- 
ment the male 
moth comes out 
he goes in quest 
of the female, and they will in most cases mate 
immediately. 

As soon as mated lift them by their wings and 
put each pair on a clean sheet of paper or cloth, or 
in a cell of the mating-box, in a darkened room, 
with a temperature of about seventy degrees. They 
should remain mated or coupled six hours. If any 
should become uncoupled too soon they must be 
put together again or given a new mate or removed. 




MALE MOTH. 



MEPRODUGTION. 



49 



as the male will make such a noise with his wings 
that it will disturb the rest and cause others to be- 
come uncoupled. 

As the domesticated silkmoth can not fly, some 
■jiay be so far apart that they can not couple. In 
oiich case bring them together. 




MATING BOX. 



If you have more males than females keep the 
extra males in a perforated box — for the next day 
you may have more females than males. If it should 
happen that your females outnumber your males 
the first day, use the liveliest males over again, as 
soon as they uncouple, for the unmated females. 

The uncoupling should be done with care. Catch 
the male and female by the wings with the thumbs 
and forefingers, and press the abdomen of the male 
with the middle finger, and they will uncouple 
easily. 



50 



GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 



Cells for Laying Moths. — These cells are sec- 
tions of thin unbleached cotton, three by four 
inches. Pass a string througli the top and hang 
them across the cocoonery. As soon as the female 




A CELL, EGGS, AND MOTH PINNED LN" CORNER. 

moths have been separated from the males, place 
each on one of the squares and darken tlie room. 
Yery soon the female will eject an egg covered with 
a viscous hquid which causes it to adhere to the 
cloth upon which it falls. Then she lays a second 



BEPMODUCTION. 51 

eo-g; by the side of the first, then a third by the side 
of the second, and so on. She rarely piles them 
upon each otlier. 

The laying lasts for about three days, and each 
female averages 350 eggs. As it takes 40,000 eggs 
to make an ounce, 120 cells will give a very lair 
ounce. Wlien the number of eggs laid by each 
moth is uniformly large or bountiful, 100 cells 
make an ounce. Or the cell may be weighed 
before the moths lay, and then weighed again alter 
the moths have laid. An ounce can in this way be 
weighed accurately. 

The moths live from eight to twelve days, and 
eat nothing. As soon as their mission is ended, 
throw them away or feed them to the chickens. _ . 
After the moths have remained on the cell six or 
seven days, take them down. It is well to pm a 
moth in the corner of its cell now and then, so that 
they can be examined by the Pasteur system for 

Eggs— When they are first laid they are of a 
brio-ht yellow color. Those unimpregnated remain 
yeUow; those imperfectly so, reddish; and neither 
will produce worms. The good eggs in a fortnight 
will turn brown; then they change to a reddish 
gray ; then they become a slaty gray, and remain so 
till nearly hatching-time. 

Some bivoltin and trivoltins' eggs never turn very 
dark, as they hatch out in about fifteen days after 
being laid. 



52 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

The Pasteur System is an examination of the 
moth by microscopic process. In France and Italy 
the worms are frequently diseased. In this country 
no disease has yet appeared. But as a precaution 
agamst disease, it is well to pin a moth now and 
then on its cell, so they can be examined. The 
moth is kept for two or three months, then rubbed 
to powder, and the powder examined for the dan 
gerous fungi. Eggs laid by diseased moths must 
be thrown away. 

For instructions in regard to keeping eggs see 
chapter on "Silkworm Eggs, How to Keep and 
Hatch Them," on page 26. 



REELING AND SPINNING, 53 

YIII. 

REELING AND SPINNING. 

Baw Silk and Reeled Silk— The distinction 
between raw silk and reeled silk is perfectly well 
defined, and the difference in fact is absolute. It is 
an erroneous and thoughtless use of language to 
confound the two commodities under one name. 

One bears the same relation to the other as raw 
cotton does to spun cotton or cotton yarn. 

When cotton is first gathered from the stalk it is 
called seed cotton, as it still has the seed in it. 
When it has been ginned,— that is, when the seed 
are extracted,— it is raw cotton. When it has been 
carded and spun, it is cotton yarn or spun cotton. 

When cocoons are first gathered from the branches ^ 
they are green cocoons, or seed silk. When they 
are stifled or pierced they are raw 5z7^,— which in- 
cludes, specifically, dried and pierced cocoons, waste, 
and floss. When the dried cocoons are reeled, and 
four to ten strands or filaments have been spun or 
twisted into one thread or yarn, it is reeled silk or 
grege; so also is the waste and floss when carded 

and spun. 

What Heeled Silk Is.— Ben. F. Peixotto, U. 
S. Consul at Lyons, France, in his official report to 
the Department of State, at Washington, October 

22, 1881, says:— 

"Eaw [reeled] silk, that is to say, silk as reeled 
from the cocoon and imported for the use of our 



54 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

silk-mills, is really a manufactured article; and 
moreover an article the value of which depends very 
largely upon the excellence of the manufacturing 
processes through which it has gone. 

'•The filature (reeling) of silk comprises three 
operations, each requiring considerable skill and 
great care to produce good silk. In the final opera- 
tion of reeling, the grege, or reeled silk, is made. 

" Fine as it is, a single thread of silk is formed of 
from four to ten or more separate filaments, each 
derived from a separate cocoon. 

"To reel the silk the cocoons are put into hot 
water, and the filaments from several of them being 
united by being pressed together adhere to one 
another because of a natural gum with which they 
are covered and "which is softened by the hot water. 
The thread resulting from the union of these fila- 
ments is then wound on a reel, the cocoons each 
paying out its filament until exhausted. 

"The reeler's business is to form this thread of 
silk and to keep it as regular as 2^ossible in size by 
adding new cocoons to the running thread as re- 
quired. It is extremely difiicult to reel with reg- 
ularity, — only the best reelers, working w4th the 
greatest care and under the most favorable con- 
ditions, succeeding in making an extremely even 
thread. 

" Now the degree of regularity has a great influence 
upon the price of silk. For example, China silks, 
which are produced from exceedingly good cocoons. 



REELING AND SPINNING. 55 

are not regular in size, which fact alone affects tlieir 
price to a very considerable extent per pound, ac- 
cordino; to the market. 

^'Up to the present time it has been extremely 
difficult to test the regularity of silk. So difficult 
is it that silk has been and is yet bought and sold 
very much according to the reputation of the estab- 
lishment at which it has been reeled, it l)eing impos- 
sible to judge exactly of the regularity of any silk 
until made up into goods, at which time any defects 
show and mar the beauty and value of the fabric." 

Hence reeled silk is not raw silk, though it is 
commonly called "raw." It is as much a manu- 
factured article as cotton yarn. Indeed it passes 
through more processes, and requires more highly 
skilled labor and more delicate machinery for its 
production. 

Technical G-rades of Reeled Silk. — Reeled 
silk is classified into organzine, tram, and floss. 
Organzine is closely spun or twisted, and is the 
best. Tram is made from inferior cocoons, and is 
more loosely spun or twisted. Floss is made of the 
loose silk carded and spun like cotton or wool. 

Nearly every silk-crop, as raised by individual 
growers, contains three or four grades of cocoons, 
and to produce good and uniform silk these must 
be separated, and each sort reeled by itself, pro- 
ducing several grades of silk. This is difficult for 
those who attempt to reel their own cocoons; and 
for this reason, and because of the advent of im- 



56 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

proved machines, hand-reels, and single basins, have 
been nearly abandoned in France and Italy, — the 
women finding it preferable and more profitable to 
sell their cocoons. 

"Therefore," says Consul Peixotto, "it is clear 
that the object of the silk-culturist should be to 
raise and market as good a crop of cocoons as pos- 
sible, to the best advantage and at the least possible 
expense and risk." 

The Process of Reeling. — The persons em- 
ployed in reeling silk are mostly women, one stand- 
ing or sitting before each basin, of which she has 
entire charge. The basin is made of copper, and, 
in the large establishments, the water in each 
basin is heated by steam, at the control of the op- 
erator. The cocoons are plunged into the water 
when it is near the boiling point, and moved about 
so that the gum which fastens the threads becomes 
uniformly and thoroughly softened. They are then 
beaten with a small birchen broom, having the tips 
split, so that the loose threads readily fasten to 
them. After beating a short time, the operator 
gets all the cocoons fastened, and, taking the bundle 
of threads, shakes the cocoons till each hangs by 
but a single one. 

She now takes up five or more threads (brins), 
according to the quality of silk wanted, unites them^ 
and introduces the combined staple or strand {JH} 
into a little glass eye on one side of the basin. She 
then forms a second similar strand and introduces 



REELING AND SPINNING. 57 

it into a second eye on the other side. The strands 
are then brought together, twisted several times, 
separated above the twist, and introduced into two 
other glass eyes or ringlets, through which they are 
led, one to each end of the reel or tambour, which 
is kept revolving in a steady, rapid manner, and to 
which is also given a certain back-and-forth side 
motion. 

The great object in reeling is to get the threads 
uniform, rounded, well joined, properly freed from 
moisture, and so crossed on the reel that they will 
not stick or "glaze," as it is termed. These objects 
are attained by the twisting and the to-and-fro lat- 
eral movement of the reel, as also by pro-nerly reg- 
ulating the distance between reel and basin. 

The uniformity of the thread depends on the skill 
of the operator, who must supply a new thread as 
soon as one begins to give out. This is called 
nourishing the silk, and is done by dexterously 
casting with the thumb the new thread upon the 
combined strand, to which it immediately adheres. 
In this she must use much judgment, for the silk of 
a cocoon gradually gets lighter and finer as it ap- 
proaches the end, and the uniformity of strand does 
not entirely depend on the uniformity in number of 
the individual threads forming it. 

Whenever the silk rises in locks the temperature 
of the water is known to be too hot; and when it 
unwinds with difficulty the temperature is, on the 
contrary, too low. 



58 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 

The operator is supplied with a skimmer with 
which to remove all chrysalides and refuse silk; 
also, with a basin of cold water in which to cool 
her fingers, which are being constantly dipped in 
the hot basin. 

This constitutes the whole operation of unwind- 
ing; but before the skeins, as they come from the 
reel, are ready for the manufacturer they must un- 
dergo still further manipulation. 

The staple is first passed through a cleanser, con- 
sisting of a clasp lined with cloth, which catches 
any loose silk or other matter that may be adhering 
to it. It is then further cleansed and purged by 
being passed through four similar cleansers, then 
twisted about five hundred times to the yard, then 
doubled and again twisted about four hundred 
times to the yard. It is finally run on to reels 
about one and a half feet in diameter, and taken 
off and twisted in a hank. 

Through all these operations the oscillating 
to-and-fro lateral motion is kept up, so as to pro- 
duce the diagonal crossing of the strands; and it 
will be readily understood that each staple is in the 
end composed of several of the simple threads first 
spun by the worm. 

The loose or floss silk, together with all that 
which, from one cause or another, can not be reeled, 
is soaked in water for three days, boiled for half an 
hour in clear lye, and wnshed in rain-water: when 
dry, it may be carded and spun. 



REELING AND SPINNING. 59 

Spun Silk. — Hon. John Ryle, of Paterson, N. J.. 
the pioneer of silk-weaving in the United States, 
and who declares himself "an earnest advocate for 
the introduction of silk-cnltui^e,'' says: — 

"We have all the requisite varieties of soil and 
climate to produce silk in great abundance, and 
with as little effort as it can be produced anywhere 
in the world. My views are not in accord with 
those of the parties at present engaged in attempt- 
ing to reel silk, — believing, as I do, that it wdll be 
some time before w^e can attempt, with any prospect 
of success, to reel silk in America. My plan is to 
raise cocoons and sell them to the manufacturers of 
spun silk, and be content with tliat branch of silk- 
raising which produces the most money for the 
smallest amount of capital and labor." 



60 



GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 



IX. 
SILK-CULTURE REQUISITES. 

One may begin silk-culture without anything ex- 
cept trees and eggs. If one desire to enter into it 
as a permanent industry, or as amusement, and to 
secure out of it the highest profits and convenience, 
all or many of the following articles will facilitate 
operations : — 

Bag Aprons, for gathering leaves, are sunply 
large aprons in the form of a bag reaching from 
the waist to the feet. 




TRAY AND COVERED FRAME. 

Camel-hair Brushes for handling worms should 
be flat, and about one inch wide. See page 35. 

Egg-boxes.— These must be made of perforated 
tin; and the perforations must be so small as to 
prevent the intrusion of any insect, and so numerous 
as to aiford perfect ventilation. 

Frames fit into the trays, and are made of strips 
of light wood, half an inch square, similar to slate- 



SILK-CULTURE BEQUISITES. 61 

frames, having a crossbar from side to side in the 
middle. Covered frames are the receptacles of 
food and feeding-places of the worms. See "Feed- 
ing," page 29. 

Frame- Covers. — The most economical covers 
are made of tarlatan, mosquito-netting, and per- 
forated paper. These cost but little : the first two 
can be cut and attached by any one, and the third 
can be bought very cheaply. They can be easily 
changed whenever they become soiled. 

Hygrometer is an instrument to indicate the 
moisture of a room ; and can rarely be had except 
in combination with a thermometer. But no well 
regulated cocoonery should be without it. A plate 
of salt may answer fairly as a substitute. 

Leaf- cutters are kitchen chopping-knives, and 
have one, two, or thi-ee blades. 

Magnifying G-lasses are used for observing the 
worms, particularly in hatching and molting. 

Mating-Boxes are one and a half by two feet, 
about an inch and a half deep, divided into com- 
partments about two and a quarter inches square, 
and covered by a snugly fitting wire-screen lid. It 
is for keeping each couple of mated moths apart 
from others and undisturbed. See page 49. 

Pruning-knives are knives with curved blades, 
such as gardeners use for pruning trees. 

Shears are gardeners' shears, such as are used 
for trimming hedges. 



^2 GUIDE TO SILK-GULTURE 

Racks or Shelves.— Eacks are better shelves; 
are cheaper. See page 21. 




SmGLE KACK. 

Sponges.— It is better to use a small sponge in 
cleaning the trajs, and a large sponge for mopping 
up the floor of the cocoonery when the temperature 
is too high. See pages 23 and 24. When sponges 
are not easily obtained, use cloths and mops. 

Stiflers.— These are for destroying the chrysal- 
ides. The best use steam or hot air. They can be 
liad adapted to gas, kerosene, or common stoves. 



SILK-CUL TUBE REQUISl TES. 63 

When hot air alone is used care must be taken to 
prevent scorching of the cocoons. 

United States Yice-Consul Griffitt, of Smyrna, in 
his report on "Silkworm Cultivation,"of July 5, 1882, 
says : "The steaming process is far preferable to any 
other ; the silk is not injured thereby, as it is apt 
to be by baking or exposure to the sun. I steam 
them twenty minutes, the water constantly boiling 
and this I find sufficient to destroy the chrysalides. 
I then place them in thin layers to dry." 

Charcoal fumes are simple and effective. So are 
solar rays, intensified by glass covers. See page 43. 

Thermometers are to indicate the temperatm-e 
of the cocoonery. Any size will do. 

Trays are shallow boxes about one and a half 
inches deep, one and a half feet wide and two feet 
long. They should be made of thin, well-seasoned, 
light, inodorous lumber. The bottom should be 
tongue-grooved and glued. 



64: 



QVIDE TO SILK-CULTURE. 



X. 
INDEX, 



A 



PAGE. 

Ages, The 31 

Age, First 32 

Age, Second 32 

Age, Third 32 

Age, Fourth 33 

Age, Fifth 34 

Air, Hot, for stifling 44 



PAGE. 

Alba, Proper 10 

Alba, Moretti 10 

Alba, Rosea 10 

Annuals 39 

Ants, precautions against.... 23 
Aprons, Bag 18, 60 



Bag-aprons 18, 60 

Bivoltins 39 

Boxes, Egg 26, 60 

Boxes, Mating... 48, 61 



Branches, Spinning 36 

Brushes, Camel-hair 35, 60 

Building, Size of 20 



Camel-hair Brushes 60 

Cases, Packing 45 

Cells for Laying Moths 50 

Changes of Food 29 

Charcoal Fumes 44 

Churchyards and School- 
houses 17 

Cocoonery, How to Con- 
struct and Manage 20 

Cocoonery Rules 24 

Cocoons, Spinning 37 

Cocoons, How to String 47 

Cocoons, standard Grades.... 42 



Cocoons, standard Sizes 41 

Cocoons, Sorting 43 

Cocoons, Double 43 

Cocoon Enemies 45 

Cocoons, How to Pack 46 

Color and Size 40 

Conditions, Electric 23 

Coupling, or Mating 48 

Covering Frames 24 

Cover Frames 60 

Cultivation 13 

Cutters, Leaf 61 

Cuttings 14 



D 
DriUs 12 I Dwarf Orchards.. 16 

Dwarf Mulberry 12 I Dwellings, Rooms in 23 



INDEX. 



65 



E 



Eggs 

Egg-boxes.... 

Eggs, How 

Hatch 



,51 
.60 



to Keep and 



Elata, Morus 10 

Electric Conditions 23 

Enemies of Cocoons 45 



.26 



Feeding. 



.29 



Fifth Age 34 

Foods ^ 

Food, Changes of 29 

Food, Quantity of 30 



Fourth Age 32 

Frames "^ 

Frames, Covering the 24 

Frame-covers 60 



G 



Gathering Cocoons 43 

Gathering Leaves 18 

Gathering, Stifling, and Pack- 
ing ... 43 



Glasses, Magnifying 61 

Grafting 



.14 



Hardiest Trees 18 

Hatching 27 

Hatches 28 

Hatching, Premature 28 

Hedges 1^ 

Hedges, to Make 15 

Hedge Orchards 16 



Highways, Public 17 

Hot Air for Stifling..... 44 

How to Handle Silk worms.. 35 

How to Pack Cocoons 46 

How to Ship Cocoons 46 



Hygrometer. 



.61 



Japanese Race 9 1 Japonica, 



Morus. 



Knives, Pruning 61 [ Knives for chopping Leaves. 61 



Laying Moths, Cells for 50 ] Leaves, Wet 19 

Leaves, Forcing of 19 Leaves, Yield of 18 

Leaves, Gathering of 18 Lettuce 12 

Leaves, Selling of 19 | Leaf, Choppers 01 



GUIDE TO SILK-GULTUnE. 



M 



Madura Aurantiaca 9 

Magnifying Glasses 61 

Market, Weighing for 46 

Mating-boxes 61 

Mating, or Coupling 48 

Migratory Effects 39 

Moisture and Temperature... 22 

Molting 31 

Moretti 10 

Morus Alba 10 

MorusElata 10 



Morus Japonica 9 

Morus Moretti 10 

Morus Multicaulis 11 

Morus Nigra 11 

Morus Rosea 10 

Morus Tartarica 11 

Mulberry, Black 9 

Mulberry, Dwarf 12 

Mulberry, Paper 12 

Mulberry, "White 9 

Multicaulis 11 



N 
Nigra, Morus 11 | Nursery 14 

O 

Orchards, Dwarf 16 I Orchards, Standard 16 

Orchards, Hedge 16 I Osage Orange 11 

P 



Pack, How to 46 

Packing-cases 45 

Paper Mulberry 12 

Parks and Streets 17 

Pasteur System 52 

Plan of Room 20 

Polyvoltins 39 

Precaution against Ants 23 



Precaution against Cocoon 

Enemies 45 

Preface 5 

Premature Hatching 28 

Process of ReeUng 56 

Pruning 14 

Pruning-knives 61 

Public Highways 17 



Quadri voltins 40 | Quantity of Food . 

R 



.30 



Races, Varieties, and Values. 39 

Racks, or Shelves 21, 62 

Racks, Space required for... 21 

Rays, Solar 45 

Reeling and Spinning 53 

Reeled Silk, Technical 

Grades 53 

Reeling, Process of 56 



Reeled Silk, What it is 53 

Relative Values 42 

Renting of Trees 19 

Reproduction 14 

Room, Plan of 20 

Rooms in Dwellings 23 

Rosea, Morus 10 

Rules, Cocoonery 24 






INDEX. 



67 



Schoolhouses and Church- 
yards 17 

Second Age 32 

Seeding 13 

Selling of Leaves 19 

Sexes 47 

Shears 61 

Shelves 21, 62 

Shelves, or Racks 21, 62 

Ship, HoviTto 46 

Ship, When to 46 

Silk-culture Requisites 60 

Silk-food Trees 9 

Silk, Raw 53 

Silk, Reeled 53 

Silk, Reeled, grades of 55 

Silk, Spun 59 



Silkworms, How to Handle. 35 

Size and Color 40 

Size of Building 20 

Solar Rays 45 

Sorting the Qncoons 43 

Sowing 13 

Space Required for Racks. . .21 

Species 9, 41 

Spinning-branches 36 

Spinning Cocoons 37 

Spinning and Reeling 53 

Sponges 62 

Standard Orchards 16 

Steaming Cocoons 44 

Stifling Cocoons 43 

Streets and Parks 17 

Stri nging Cocoons 47 



Tartarica, Morus 11 

Technical Grades of Reeled 

Silk 55 

The Ages 31 

Thermometers 63 

Third Age. 32 



Temperature and Moisture... 22 

Transplanting 13 

Trays 63 

Trees, Hardiest 18 

Trees, Renting of 19 

Trivoltins 40 



Yalues,Varkties, and Races. 39 I Varieties 39 

Yalues, Relative 43 I 

W 

When to Ship Cocoons 46 | Weighing for Market 40 

What Reeled Silk Is 53 I Weight of Cocoons 42 



Yards of Thread to each I Yield of Leaves 18 

.Cocoon 37 



NEW YORK SILK EXCHANGE, 

(Incorporated 1882). 



To Silk Culturists. 

The (.lemaud for Eggs, Trees and Seed is so large that it 
is impossible to guarantee sufficient supplies for next 
season unless you send us your orders immediately. 

Orders must give New York City reference or be accom- 
panied by cash, (postal order or check or registered letter.) 

Cash orders have preference, and are guaranteed to be 
filled as soon as goods arrive in New York. 

Ordei-s giving reference will be advised upon receipt of 
European invoices, of the amount required to cover said 
orders, ind cash must be remitted upon receipt of such 
advice. 

No goods shipped C. O. D. 

EGGS. 

We shall supply, unless otherwise ordered, the French 
(Pyrenean or Var or Cevennes) Annuals, warranted abso- 
lutely free from disease, being obtained through the Pasteur 
system. 

The Pyienean and Cevennes races are the hardiest, and 
best suited to the Middle, Eastern and Western States, 
having proved very successful in those States. These pro- 
duce t lie large "peanut" shaped, straw-colored Cocoons. 

They must be transported between Nov. 1st and March 
31st — in some parts of the country as late as 1st of May. 

To Keep them till hatching time, place them in a cool 
cellar in a small tin box punctured with many small holes. 

To Hatch them, bring them into a warmer place as soon 
as the Mulberry or Osage Orange trees begin to leaf out. 
They will hatch in one to four days. 

To Feed and RE.\Ktliem, seethe 'Complete Guide 
TO Silk Cultuke," by L. Capsadell. 

PRICE OF EGGS. 

Best, imported, guaranteed, . $4 per oz. ; 25c. per 1000. 
Best American, . . $3.50 per oz. ; 20c. per 1000. 

Boxes for transporting and keeping eggs, each . 10 cts. 



To those Avanting to go into Silk Culture, but who have 
not the means, the Exchange will sell lands upon easy 
terms. 

Q 



SILK-FOOD TREES. 

Osnge-Oraiige '^vill produce silk ;ind pay a fair profit. 
Use it if you have no other. But we advise — for higlier 
profit^to acquire better food while j^ou are learning to be- 
come expert in tlie culture. 

The American AVhite Mulberry is better. The large old 
trees of this variety yield cuttings which produce excellent 
food. Plant trees*^ in fall 12 feet apart for nurseries. 4 to 
6 feet apart if in a continuous row along the fence. They 
can be planted in hedges. Dwarf trees may be put 6 feet 
apart in good ground. Plant cuttings in spring; make cut- 
tings 9 to 12 inches long, with 4 to ej'es ; bury § of each 
cutting, leaving 2 eyes out, 12 inches apart, in furrows 8 
feet apart. 

If you plant out 100 Morns Japonica. 8 to 10 feet high, in fall, rhej- 
will feed half oz. of eggs (20.000 worms) next spring; and they will 
feed one oz. of e^gs (40,000 worms) the succeeding spring. One oz. of 
Pyrenean eggs will give about 135 lbs. of cocoons. ^leantime j'ou can 
be increasing the orchard by cuttings and seedlings. 

One acre will contain about 302 trees, set 12 feet apart each way. 

PRICES OF MULBERRY TREES : 

Cuttings of Alba, Rosea, and Moretti, per 10.0, $ 0.90 

Seedlings " " " 1 to 2 ft. high, 4.00 

Trees, grafted, Moretti, 3 to 4 ft. high 8.00 

Alba. Rosea, Moretti, 8 to lO'ft. high, . 28.00 
Japonica. 8 to 10 ft. high, 30.00 

Cuttings and small trees can be sent by mail. 

Postage packing and cartage extra. 

Note. — Morns Albn, Rosea, Moretti and Jnj)onicn are the 
best silk producers; Japonica yields 1 lb. of silk to 10 lbs. 
of leaves, Alba, Ro.sea and .Moretti yield each 1 lb. silk to 
14 lbs. of leaves. France and Italy have discarded all other 
trees for Japonica. 

PRICES OF MULBERRY SEED : 

Morus Alba $3.00 per lb. ; 25 cts. per oz. 

Rosea 4.00 " 35 cts. 

Moretti, 5.00 " 45 cts. 

Seed in drills. Trees grown from seed should be grafted. 

Silk Culture can be conducted profitably wherever any 
kind of Mulberry trees or Osage Orange will grow; and the 
best varieties will grow almost everywhere in the United 
States. 

3 



SILK CULTURE AS A HOME EMPLOYMENT. 

There are thousands of women who are unable to labor 
in shop, field or factory, and have no means outside of 
their household duties of converting labor into capital. 

Tliere are tliousands of others who are forced to live in 
idleness, or to go further, paint bad pictures, write poor 
sketches, drag their lives out teaching, or marry uncon- 
genial husbands for the sake of a living. And there is a 
sentiment that it is a species of degradation to a young 
girl or woman to "go out" and work — but she will toil 
at home till her e,yes grow dim. 

Silk Culture, for all these people, is an easy money- 
making employment at home, as it requires but a small 
amount of la1)or and capital, and is peculiarly adapted to 
the delicacy of skill and care Miiich every woman natur- 
ally possesses. 

HOW TO BEGIN SILK CULTURE. 

No special buildings are required, as a room in the 
house, attic, stable or shed (with some care as to temper- 
ature and ventilation,) Avill do for a cocoonery, and after 
the Mulberry trees are planted an oz. or so of silk-worm 
eggs and a small book of instructions are all that are 
needed for a start. 

Silk Culture does not interfere with domestic duties. 
Neither need the growing of trees interfere with the grow- 
ing of vegetables, as the trimming sj^stem keeps the trees 
so dwarfed they throw but little shade, and will grow bet- 
ter by cultivating vegetables intermediately. 

Use Osage Orange or the American White Mulberry, to 
begin, as these trees are ready grown in many parts of the 
United States; but plant out a few of the Morus Alba, or 
Rosea, Moretti, or Japonica at once, and increase the number 
from year to year until you can abandon the inferior plants. 

Use nothing but the best Eggs, and acquire the best Trees as 
soon as you can. 

YOU WILL NEED TO BEGIN : 

About I oz. Eggs, say $2 00 

1 Tray and two frames (as models), . .about 1 35 
Yoix can make additional frames and trays as needed. 

Perforated paper for 20 frames, about 1 00 

Lumber and nails for Racks or Stands to 

hold Trays, about 75 

$5 00 
4 



SILK CULTURE IS A PROFITABLE EMPLOYMENT. 

In I he lower Southern States three crops can be raised a 
season, two in the upper Southern States, and one in the 
Middle, Eastern and Northern States, each crop taking 
five to six weeks. Each crop will yield from $300 to $800 
for every acre of land planted in Mulberry trees, accord- 
ing to the care and skill bestowed. 

Trivoltins are required for three crops, bivoltins for two crops. 
These are Eastern or Japanese races, are more delicate and less silk 
productive than the Pyreneaii race, which \%q.x\. n7inunl. 'Y\\e atifiuai 
is the standard in France, where one certain large crop is considered 
better than two or three doubtful smaller ones. 

Can any fruits or vegetables bring better returns, — or 
should any one go needy when such resources lie at the 
door ? 

It has also been demonstrated that silk raising will abso- 
lutely pay better with light labor than cotton or rice or 
sugar or tobacco with heavy labor. 



PRICrS OF REQUISITES : 

Double Racks for 16 trays, each $12.00 

Single " 8 " " .. 9.00 

1 Tray and 2 Frames, as models, 1. 25 

Floor and Tray Sponges, each 25c. and up 

Tarlatan Frame covers, " 5c 

Netting " " " 5c 

Perforated paper, " '• 5c 

Boxes for shipping and preserving eggs, each 10c 

Bag Aprons, each 50c 

Camel-hair Brushes, all sizes 50c. and up 

Pruning Knives, each 50c. to 1.50 

Shears, " 90c. to 2.50 

Leaf cutters, " 25c. and 50c 

Thermometers, " 25c. and up 

Thermometer and Hygrometer eombincd., 4.00 

Magnifying Glasses, 2 lenses 60c., 90c. and 1.25 

3 lenses 90c., 1.10 and 1.40 

Mating Boxes, wooden bottoms, wire-gauze lids, 2.00 

Patent Steam Stiflers No. 1, holding 8 lbs. Cocoons,. 3.75 

" No. 2, " 12 " . 5.00 

No. 3, " 16 " . 6.00 

" No. 4, " 25 " . 8.00 



SILK-CULTURE FACTS. 

Cities and Towns may adorn their streets and parks 
with Mulberry, turn hovels into cocooneries, and make 
their poor, aged and infirm self-supporting and contented. 

Clergymen may find recreation and profit in Silk 
Culture. The Mulberry makes beautiful shade trees for 
village and country churches, and will afford opportunity 
for pastors to improve the material, as well as the spirit- 
ual, condition of their parishioners. 

Teachers can supplement their income greatly by 
raising Silk Worms during vacation. Prof. Jas. Johonnot 
is making Silk Culture a special topic of his Institute 
lectures before teachers thoughout the State of New York. 
He saj^s that, as the schools generally (except in large 
cities) close early in spring, this vacation employment of 
six weeks will, in very many cases, pay more than all the 
winter's teaching. 

Taxation is reduced by whatever increases national 
tvealth. National wealth is simply individual prosperity. 
Silk Culture is the only industry applicable to every indi- 
vidual. It brings money to the humblest "hewer of wood 
and drawer of water," the farmer's wife and daughter, the 
brown-armed son of toil, teacher, scientist, clergyman, 
alike. It is peculiarly The People's Industry. 

Nationally f it is estimated that there were 25,000 
people engaged in Silk ('ulture in the U. S. last year, and 
50,000 will be engaged in it next year; and that, supposing 
our 50,000,000 population comprises 10,000,000 producers, 
Silk Culture may transfer (women, children and old men,) 
10,000,000 from non-producers to producers. Whatever 
doubles the producing power of a nation doubles its wealth. 
Silk Culture enabled France to discharge a war debt quicker 
than so large a debt was ever paid by any other nation. 

Years ago Silk Culture was attempted in this country and 
much money was lost because there were no mills to con- 
sume the silk. Now there are 380 silk mills in the United 
States. Two-thirds of the raw silk which they use is im- 
ported, for which thirty-five million dollars are annually 
sent abroad. Silk Culture can retain all this money at 
home and put it at once into the pockets of farmers' wives. 

There is no reason why the entire demand of the mills 
should not be supplied by cocoons produced here. 



SUGGESTIONS TO SILK-CULTURISTS. 

Charlatans, — Some unprincipled parties and so-called 
"associations" and "companies," taking- advantage of tlio 
novelty and newness of the industry and its undefined 
prices' have been charging for Eggs, $40 per oz. or $1 per 
1000, and even as high as $160 per oz. or 40c. per 100 ! 
And similar prices for trees and requisites ! Such prices 
are exorbitant and extortionate. Compare them v/ith our 
quotations. Such outrages should occur no more. 

Hoiv to Increase the Profits. — The experience of 
France, Italy, Japan, China, etc., should be applied here 
with Avatchfulness. The precise processes of one country 
will not apply in detail to any other country. We have 
in the United States newer lands, more primitive soil, more 
viU'ied climates, and purer atmospheres — the. chemical qua- 
lities of life Avith less vitiation — than any other Silk pro- 
ducing country. The Exchange requests Silk culturists to 
note their experiments and results and report same, how- 
ever simple they may appear. It will gladly record, tabu- 
late and distribute all such data, ,rapidly and freely. Thus 
the Silk culturists of the United States may make swift 
and profitable advances over the older Silk countries. 
The United States brought cotton culture to its highest 
profits. Why not advance Silk culture? What we know 
of it assures large profits. Let us learn more and acquire 
larger profits — and in the American Avay — quickly. 

llie JP?*ess.—Vv''hile realizing that the recent and re- 
peated references to Silk culture by the newspaper press 
are in the public interest, the Silk P^xchange thanks Edi- 
tors none the less for presenting the topic so fully, and es- 
pecially for the uniform courtesy and kindness which it 
has received at their hands. Neither Silk culture nor any 
other culture can advance in a Republic like ours without 
the approval and encouragement of the press, and the Silk 
Mxchangf: respectfully solicits the attention of Editors 
i!!id the co-operation of every periodical in the United 
States in behalf of this New Industry for the People. 

The Silk Exchange, in acknowledging the prac- 
tical encouragement which it is daily receiving, 
assures it patrons that it is pushing its connec- 
tions and establishing agencies in the United States, 
France, Italy, Japan, China, etc., with all possible speed, 
and will meet every demand of the export and import trade 
of Silk Culture. 

n 



THE COMPLETE 

GUIDE TO SILK CULTURE. 

By L. C^ APSADELL, Sec. N. Y. Silk Exchange, 

Price 25 Cts. A Reliable 

MANUAL FOR SILK-CUL TURISTS 

AND 

TEXT BOOK FOR SCHOOLS. 
Comprehensive, brief, acciirn,te, tliorough and 
practical. 
L Silk-Food trees niul How to Raise them. 
IL Cocoonery, How lo Construct and Manage. 

III. Eggs, LLow to Keep and Hatcli them. 

IV. How to Rear Silk Woi-ms. 

V. Races, Varieties and Values. 

VI. Gathering, Stifling and Packing Cocoons. 

VII. Reproduction. 

VIIT. Reeling and Spinning. 

IX. Silk-Culture Requisites. 

X. ^ndex. 

Mailed post-pai<l on receipt of price. 



Special Iffotic^e. 

We will give cash and highest market rates for 
all the Cocoons produced in the United States, 
and for Eggs (Annuals) of hardy, unmixed races. 
We supply everything that Silk Culturists I'equire, 
at the very lowest possible prices, and guarantee 
every article we sell. 

Orders, letters, and inquiries of all sorts, pertain- 
ing to Silk Culture are pouring in by every mail. 
The entire country is aroused by this Xew Industry. 

Address all communications to 

NEW YORK SILK EXCHANGE, 

27 Bond St., New York. 



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[Establislied 1865.] 

SBLIGION AND PHILOSOPHY. 

Wm. I. Giiiii, A. M ^^ 

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Life Among the Clergy. x>y x^, 

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French Exiles of Louisiana. J. T. Lindsay, 
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Hubbub. E. C. Currier, 

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Summer Boarders. Adele M. Garragues, 
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M.D ^^^*^- 

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The distinguishing feature of the Manuscript Paper is its con- 
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ircumstantial Evidence. Alice Ir- 



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r 



JERSEY SILK COLONY AND MODEL SILK FARM, 

At PAKK EIDGE, BEKGEN CO., N. J., 23 miles from New York. 

I 

SELECTED AND LAID OUT BY THE | 

NEW YOI\K SILK EXCHANGE. 



The plots comprise one acre to four acres each, on gently sloping hillsides, 
with southeastern and southern exposures — all well suited to growing mulberry 
trees. The location is high, picturesque and healthful, with pure air, pure 
water, and away from swamps, mosquitoes and malaria. 

Every acre planted in mulberry trees will yield from $300 to $1,000 per 
acre, according to course pursued. 

The cultivation of trees and silk worms does not interfere with raising of 
vegetables, as the trees grow better by intermediate cultivation. 

Prices, $80 to $250 per acre, on easy terms. These prices vary according, 
to location on the farm and average less than $9 per lot, if measured as 
full-sized city lots, 25x100 feet. 

This is the best opportunity ever offered to 

SECURE A BEAUTIFUL SELF-SUPPORTING HOME, 

which WILL PAY FOR ITSELF IN TWO YEARS, will double itself in 
value every year for five years, and maintain its highest value for generations.: 
Even children and old-folks can make themselves self-supporting at Silk 
Culture. 

Dr. Alfred S. Kennedy, in a recent issue of the Textile Record of America (N. Y.), says 
that a similar MODEL SILK FARM of 50 acres in Australia, where $30,812 were expended 
for land, trees and buildings, and $7,711 for total working expenses the first year, yielded 
the same year 

A. P*rofit of Over #-44o per .A^cre, 

($22,289) or nearly 58 per cent, of the entire outlay. 

The 30,000 lbs. of cocoons yielded by foregoing experiment would, if pierced and used 
by the culturists for producing eggs, have resulted in a net profit of $1,365 per acre. 

The Silk Exchange has selected and designed this as a MODEL SILK 
FARM, and desire to locate on it intelligent parties who wish to go into SILK 
CULTURE. Settlers will be assisted and instructed by a practical silk cultur- 
ist from the Exchange, without charge. j 

[Extract from N. Y. Star, Oct. 15, 1882— interview ivith President of the Exchange]. \ 

» "ON A MODEL SILK FARM. 

" ' The soil is a gravelly loam, with a clay subsoil, high, well-drained, and is admirably 
adapted to our purpose. Before I finally selected that piece of land, I looked at forty other 
tracts. I spent four months in time and $1,000 in car-fare.' 

' What sort of people do you expect as colonists ? ' 

' O, first-class people, of course. We encourage no others. Perhaps I may as well 
say that the Exchange does not intend to assert any right to regulate the actions of the 
colonists. It is not at all a communistic affair. Each person buys a plot of land and raises 
silk- worms in his or her own way.' " 

Parties at a distance buying and not wishing to occupy their land immedi- 
ately can have it put in order, trees planted and cared for, etc., the first year 
for $25 to $50, according to size of plot and number of trees. Mean time |*it 
may be cultivated in vegetables on shares and yield good profit to the owner 

t^" Car-fare, by annual commutation, from New York to Park P ^Idge i; 
only 13 cents. Heads of families residing there may easily attend ' ^^o dail: 
business in New York. For further particulars, apply to 

NEW YORK SILK DXCHINGE, 27 Bond St. „ IJ. 1 












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